Muzeum II Wojny Swiatowej

The Museum of the Second World War, Muzeum II Wojny Swiatowej, is one of the largest museums anywhere devoted to the war. It opened in 2017 in a striking modern building near the Motlawa, a leaning tower of glass and concrete that tilts over an open square. The main exhibition is not in the tower but underground, spread across roughly 5,000 square metres of galleries.

Gdansk is where the war began, at nearby Westerplatte, which makes it a fitting home for a museum on this scale. The exhibition sets out to tell the whole story of the conflict, not just the military campaigns but the experience of civilians and the long aftermath. It is thorough, sober and takes several hours to do properly. Pair it with the European Solidarity Centre for a full day on the city's 20th-century history.

The permanent exhibition runs in a long sequence through the causes of the war, the fighting and occupation, and the world that followed. It leans hard on personal stories, objects and reconstructed settings rather than dry timelines, including a street scene and a large military exhibit near the end. It is dense with material, so pace yourself and use the cloakroom before you start. The building's tilted tower holds an observation level with a view over the city.

Allow at least two to three hours for the main exhibition, and more if you read closely. It is a lot to absorb, so many people find one visit is enough for a single day. An audio guide helps you move at your own pace.

Go early or later in the afternoon to avoid the midday school and tour groups. Some museums in Poland offer a free-entry day each week with timed tickets, which can be busy, so book ahead if you can. The subject matter is heavy, so it is not the best choice for young children.

The museum is on the edge of the old town by the river, a short walk north from the main sights. From the Motlawa waterfront it is about ten minutes on foot. For transport across the city, see the Gdansk guide.

The building is modern and step-free, with lifts down to the underground galleries, so it works well for wheelchairs and prams. Check the museum's official channels for details on assistance and audio guides.

The museum sits between the old town and the shipyards:

• The Crane (Zuraw) and the Motlawa waterfront, a few minutes south.
• The European Solidarity Centre, on the site of the Gdansk shipyard.
• The Main Town and its market streets, a short walk away.

Plan for two to three hours for the main exhibition. It is large and detailed, and rushing it defeats the point.

The subject is difficult and some content is distressing, so it suits older children and adults more than young ones. Use your judgement.