Region
Warmia and Masuria
Greater Poland (Wielkopolska) is where the Polish state began, a region of gentle farmland and old towns centred on Poznan. It is less visited than the south, which is part of its appeal.
Poznan is the hub: a colourful Renaissance market square where mechanical goats butt heads on the town hall at noon, a cathedral island that holds the tombs of Poland's first rulers, and a lively student and trade-fair scene. It sits conveniently on the line between Berlin and Warsaw.
The surrounding region carries the founding story of the country. Gniezno, the first capital, and the island stronghold of Ostrow Lednicki lie within reach, and the Piast Route links the earliest sites of the medieval state. Poznan's own tradition is edible: the rogal swietomarcinski, a rich croissant with EU protected status.
Poznan makes the natural base, with an airport and fast trains east and west. A day or two covers the city, with time for a run out along the Piast Route.
Destinations
Places to see
Nature
Masurian Lakes
A glacial maze of interconnected lakes and forest in the northeast, Poland's prime region for sailing, kayaking and slow summers on the water.
Castle
Olsztyn Castle (Castle of the Warmian Cathedral Chapter)
The 14th-century Gothic castle where Nicolaus Copernicus lived, worked and left behind the only astronomical instrument of his that survives.
Attraction
Co-Cathedral Basilica of St James in Olsztyn
A red-brick Gothic hall church at the centre of Olsztyn's Old Town, raised for a Latin greeting.
Attraction
High Gate (Wysoka Brama)
The last of Olsztyn's three medieval gates and the most striking surviving piece of the old city walls.
Attraction
Olsztyn Old Town
A compact market square of gabled burgher houses, ringed by fragments of the medieval walls.
Museum
Olsztyn Planetarium and Astronomical Observatory
A Copernicus-themed planetarium under a 15-metre dome, paired with an observatory set inside a 19th-century water tower.
Nature
Lake Ukiel (Jezioro Krzywe)
The biggest lake inside the city itself, with a 22 km shoreline of beaches, marinas and water sports.
Restaurant
Cudne Manowce
A Warmian and Masurian kitchen set on the Old Town walls, with a terrace above the Lyna river.
Restaurant
Restauracja Przystan
A large two-level restaurant built out over the docks of Lake Ukiel, leaning on regional and freshwater dishes.