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Krakow or Wroclaw: Which to Visit?
Krakow and Wroclaw are a direct train ride apart, short enough to do in a morning. Both have large market squares, Gothic churches and a student population that keeps the bars full. Krakow is the bigger name and carries the bigger crowds. Wroclaw offers a similar shape of city with a fraction of the visitors and a river running through the middle of it.
Krakow
Best for: First visits, royal and Jewish history, and travellers with limited time.
- Wawel Hill, the coronation and burial place of Polish kings, has no equivalent anywhere else in the country.
- Kazimierz preserves the street plan, synagogues and cemeteries of one of the most important centres of Jewish life in Europe.
- UNESCO listed the historic centre in 1978 for the density of monuments preserved in their original form.
- Auschwitz-Birkenau and Wieliczka are both day trips from here.
Wroclaw
Best for: A second trip to Poland, and anyone tired of queueing.
- One of the largest market squares in the country, with a Gothic town hall in the middle of it and noticeably fewer people around it.
- The city sits on the Oder across a scatter of islands, so bridges and water are part of daily life in a way they are not in Krakow.
- Ostrow Tumski, the cathedral island, still has gas lamps lit by hand each evening.
- Several hundred small bronze dwarves hidden across the city, which began as a protest symbol under communism and is now a genuine reason children enjoy the place.
The bottom line
If you have never been to Poland, go to Krakow. It holds more of the things people travel to Poland for and it holds them close together, and an electric cart tour links the three main districts in under an hour. If you have already done Krakow, or if crowds are the thing that ruins a city for you, Wroclaw gives you a comparable old town, a better river and a far quieter experience. They are close enough that a week can comfortably take in both.
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